I have to admit this subject bores me to tears. Amazingly, the simple fact is that every time I interviewed a fisherman about night fishing tips he mentioned preparation at the top of the list.

As boring as the topic can be, make it a habit to go through this section as a checklist before embarking an a night fishing excursion. I am guilty of forgetting some essentials from time to time - make sure you don’t!

Early morning, evening, and night fishing can be extremely fulfilling (in terms of the FUN you have and the amount of big fish you CATCH). It all depends on how prepared you are for the trip. Here are some tips to make sure that you have an amazing experience, and catch a ton of big fish.

Equipment Checks & Stuff You Must Consider

Go through each tackle box you are going to take and locate every item you need, making sure everything is in the proper place. It is important to be even more organized than normal because with night fishing you must rely on your sense of touch and sound to find what you are looking for. The more organized your gear and tackle is, the easier it is for you to find what you need. It is so frustrating to not be able to find your pliers, hooks, extra line, etc. in the dark! You must have visual knowledge of where these things are!

Make sure to bring several light sources on your trip. Have some extra flashlights and a good high candle power beam. Don’t forget to bring extra batteries!

Pre-tie enough leaders and rigs to last the entire trip. This will save you tons of time, and you’ll be glad you took this extra step of preparation!

If you don’t have a first aid kit, get one! If you have one, double check it! You are more prone to injury at night, and be prepared to handle little cuts and bruises - especially if you are on a boat!

L.E.D. headlamps are very effective. If at all possible, have one on hand. The headlight helps with unhooking (and much more) - they are convenient than a handheld light. There are some L.E.D. headlights that put out great light, and the batteries last a long time. Also, tying on lures can almost be impossible in total darkness without the help of a headlamp that keeps both hands free. The less time an angler spends changing lures and retying in the dark, the more time the angler will spend fishing.

Because fish caught tend to be bigger at night it would pay to step up a line class. This puts you more in control of the fight and will save time in getting the fish to the boat.

Boat Preparation (if you fish off of a boat, be prepared to be prepared!)

Night fishing from a boat can be very productive and safe if you have the right equipment, you are organized, stick to a set plan, and are confident about the area you intend to fish.
If you are going out on a boat, make sure it is in good working order! This goes without saying, but it is so important I will say it anyway You don’t want to get stuck out there at night. Really, you should always check your boat no matter what time you go out fishing. However, you want to be especially sure to double, triple, and quadruple check everything if you are going on an evening trip!

Know the layout on the boat; it is important to avoid accidents. In your artificial lighting your reaction time to problems and unmanned rods bending is going to be at least double. Take some time to place your gear appropriately, and take note of where everything is before the sun goes down. Everything takes twice as long at night as it is.

Bow and stern lights are required and essential equipment on your boat and they must be lit when visibility is reduced. Striking unseen objects at night is the most often reported nighttime accident and unlit boats lead as those unseen objects. The temptation to venture forth without proper lighting is not only illegal, but also extremely foolish.

A proper and fully functional warning device (horn) becomes a vital piece of equipment in the darkness. It can be used to warn approaching craft as to your presence and also can be used to draw attention in the event of problems arising. Although not required unless off shore, visual distress signals (flares) should be on board.

An approved type fire extinguisher that is currently dated should be onboard and in a convenient and ready location. During a fire is no time to find out that the extinguisher will not function because it is out of date.

A paddle is required (for smallish boats), not optional equipment, and again should be in a convenient and accessible location.

An anchoring device with adequate line in both size and length for your boat. Deployment of the anchor should occur at the first sign of trouble to keep your boat in its present safe location. Too often then anchor is the last thing thought of and boats end up drifting into dangerous situations.

Some sort of bailing device should be on board. Pumps are useless when the battery goes dead.

A radio with weather band capability is not only recommended for day operation but is an essential piece of equipment at night. Those clouds that look harmless that you see floating over can be hiding a serious storm. The whole world could know about it but if you have no means of hearing the warnings you can be caught by nature’s worst.

Navigation tools, which are helpful in the daylight, become absolutely essential for safety at night. Obviously your best choice for nighttime operation would be a GPS. However, a compass would be a considerable assistant in the dark. Not only is everything different out there at night, but also things such as fog can move in with no apparent warning and without a means of determining direction you are dead in the water.

Personal floatation devices (properly fitted) for each person on board are at the top of the list and should be worn by everyone when fishing at night. Finding someone that has fallen overboard in the daytime is generally easy, but in the dark can be quite difficult. A throw able flotation device is also required equipment and should be in a convenient location.

Make sure that your boat batteries have a full charge before leaving home. In most states your boat lights have to remain on throughout the night. Running a black light, electric trolling motor, fish finders, and other gadgets can take a toll on the battery through the course of a night trip. It may be wise to carry an extra battery aboard just in case.

Insect repellent is a must. You should never leave the boat ramp without a good bottle for those trips when the bugs are biting more than the bass.

Make sure you are anchored securely and not drifting. This is critical if you are fishing close to headlands or structure where there is turbulent water. When you are settled, get a radio check and try all lights on board before it gets dark, so if there is a problem, it can be fixed before nightfall.

First aid kit, basic tools, manuals etc. are all recommended.

Check The Weather

As obvious as this one is, too many people forget to do a simple check of the forecast. Try to pick a night where the weather forecast is good. It is tough enough to move around in the dark as it is. Bad weather makes it even harder. This can really “make or break” your fishing trip.

Copyright 2005 EveningSecretFishing.com Fishing

Frank Faldo is a Long-Time Fisherman and friend of EveningSecretFishing (http://www.eveningsecretfishing.com/specialsecret/Night_Fishing_Preparation.php)

Feel free to use this article on your website or anywhere else - but all links and bio information must remain in tact.

Cheap Sinkers

Spark plugs make excellent disposable sinkers. Need some cheap (free) fishing weights? Go to any gas station and ask for them. Then, loop a rubber band through the electrode and then tapping the wire down the plug can be attached to a loop of monofilament. The rubber band stretches when the plug is hung up, and even if the extra stretching force isn’t enough to break free, the band will break before the monofilament.

Jig Weights

Jigs are one of the most versatile game-fish catchers in either fresh or saltwater. It is so important to have the right weight jig for your line weight. If the jig is too heavy for the line, you will loose your jig far too easily. If the jig is too light for the line, its swimming pattern will be disrupted and it won’t be ass effective. This simple chart will help you select the correct jig:

Line Strength Jig Size
4-lb. Test 1/16 to 1/8 oz.
6-lb. Test 1/8 to ¼ oz.
8-lb. Test ¼ to 3/8 oz.
10-lb. Test ¼ to ½ oz.
12-lb. Test 3/8 to 5/8 oz.
14 to 20-lb. Test 5/8 to ¾ oz

Treble Hook Replacement

When replacing the treble hooks on your lures, there are a few things to consider. Chang the split ring too because it is subject to stress and rust. Use a stainless-steel split ring for strength. They do not spread or rust as to most of those that come wit h the plugs. Don’t, however, use stainless steel hooks - they are more easily bent out of shape by a fighting fish. Also, if a fish gets away with your plug, stainless steel will not rust out, as a plain steel hook will. Lastly, get some split-ring pliers - they make changing your hooks easy.

Extra Springs

If you use a spinning reel, you have probably had a spring break when the fishing gets really hot. Always carry extras (use a 35mm-film canister) - and make sure to have a little screwdriver along as well. Practice changing it before you go out

No-slip Soles

If your winter boot soles are worn, just cut the liner to match the sole of an old sneaker. Fasten the felt to the sneaker sole with a non-soluble glue. Please a heavy object on top of the sneaker overnight, and by morning you have an all purpose non-slip shoe.

Snag-proof Spinners

Treble hooks are oftentimes “trouble” when using spinners, causing snags. Make them snag-free by removing the treble hook and replace with a single hook. Next thread on a three to four inch twister-tail grub and Texas-rig it.

Downriggers

Need to drop your bait down deep? Fish are very uncooperative creatures, and don’t always hang out near the surface. If your depth sounder is alerting you to fish down deeper, a downrigger can really help out.

If you aren’t exactly sure what it is, it is simple. It is a spool holding between 200-600 feet of steel cable. There is a weight attached that is between 6-12 pounds. Additionally there is a quick-release line gripper, just like a clothespin.

The fishing lines from your rods are attached to the quick-release mechanisms. Then the entire thing is dropped down to the depth you want. The bait is far enough from the weight and line gripper not to spook the fish. If you get a bite, the line is released from the gripper, so it is just you and the fish!

Some downriggers have fish-attractant properties (either electrical, or a special kind of paint), but not most of them.

Downriggers work great for deep trolling, and some even have an electronic crank that will bring everything up. If you need to get at deeper schools of fish, these are highly recommended.

Nail Polish Helps

Does your spoon, spinner, or plug get the paint chipped after only a few casts? Use clear fingernail polish to protect the paint and increase durability. Carry a bottle with you when you are fishing, and give it a shot.

Ferrules

If there is dirt on your ferrule it can contribute to rapid wear. Make a plug out of wood to help keep the female ferrule clean.

Is your ferrule stuck? Use “Liquid Wrench”, which you can get at any auto-parts store. Just spray it around the male ferrule and let it drip down. In a few minutes you will be able to pull it apart.

Getting Out Line Tangles

Use a pair of large fabric needles to work out these tangles. They have a smooth finish which won’t damage the line as you work the mess out. They are also handy to sew canvas tarp, leather, or carpet strips.

Pocket Tackle box

Attach a cord to your pocket tackle box, so you don’t worry about dropping it in the water or leaving it behind. Just drill an undersized hole near the back of the box and insert a small eye-screw. A know will stop the cord from slipping through the eye. Just put a clip on the other end so that you can secure the rope to a belt loop or buttonhole.

Avoiding Line Twist

Line twist is the leading cause of fouled fishing. To check for it, pull off enough line to span your outstretched hands - about 6 feet. Next, bring your hands together in front of you, causing the line to drop into a loop. If the loop wraps around itself, you have line twist. Remove it by trolling about 100 feet of line behind a boat. Next install a ball-bearing swivel to prevent future line twist.

Knots Are Key

One of the most important things in losing or landing a hooked fish is your knot. Be certain the knot you are tying is strong and properly tied.

To make sure, tie your usual knot and test it against other knots. A good test is to take two four-inch sections of a broom handle with the screw eye in the center of each. Tie a knot in each screw eye and pull steadily until you see which knot survives. Do it 10 times to get an average. The knot that holds best should be your new knot.

Anchor Pulley, Keep it Quiet

If you use an anchor pulley, you risk spooking the fish as most pulleys eventually start to squeak. Try this alternative to a pulley:

Get a large U-bolt, a few nuts and washers, and an old-style glass or porcelain fencepost insulator.

Slip the insulator on a U-bolt, drill a couple of holes to accommodate the bolt, and tighten it to the mounting surface. The anchor rope will slide freely in the insulator’s groove, and the anchor lowers and raises as effortlessly as with a pulley, especially once the rope is wet.

Casting Poppers

Casting poppers with a fly rod is awkward. To get better distance bore a slightly undersized small hole in the popper, just big enough to fit a BB in. It should fit snugly and will give you another 30 feet of casting distance at least.

Cheap and easy depth finder

Using two felt-tipped markers (red and black) mark an anchor rope as follows: A single red mark around the rope at five feet, a red and black mark at 10 feet, a single red mark at 15 feet, two black marks at 20 feet, a single red and two black marks at 25 feet and three black marks at 30. Use the color code red for every five feet and multiples of black for 10 feet.

Netting baitfish

Increases the efficiency of your minnow scoop by putting a bend in it. Just turn the wire handle down 90 degrees, then push the net back on line. The forward-positioned net makes it much easier to trap a baitfish against the inside of an open-top bucket.

A Cheap Anchor For A Fishing Boat

For holding a good-sized boat over a rocky bottom, use a large swivel snap to fasten four fee of heavy chain to a standard mushroom anchor. You can get one from a junkyard. The chain boosts the anchor’s weight and holding power, provides convenient handles for lowering and raising, and gives extra leverage when an anchor jams in rocks or snags. When he brings it aboard, he coils the heavy chain on a bed of old foam-rubber pads so it doesn’t rattle around or dent his boat. In calm water, he simply unsnaps the chain and uses the mushroom anchor by itself.

Copyright 2005 EveningSecretFishing.com Fishing

Frank Faldo is a Long-Time Fisherman and friend of EveningSecretFishing (http://www.eveningsecretfishing.com/specialsecret/10_Fishing_Gems.php )

Feel free to use this article on your website or anywhere else - but all links and bio information must remain in tact.

3 Lures You Must Have

Do you know what the top 3 lures for catching Bass are? Though there aren’t any specific statistics, a survey was conducted amongst the pro bass fishermen and it was found that plastic worms won by a large margin. Second and third place were the spinnerbait and then the crank bait.

Picking one of these 3 is not enough, however. You must take into account the lake you are fishing on before you select your lure. Especially you must consider if it is better to cover a smaller segment of water thoroughly or skim across a larger expanse as quickly as possible to find fish. Using a worm is slower, but extremely effective and is very seductive to Bass. They do best when the fish are schooled over a particular structure.

Spinnerbait can be moved more quickly across the surface and can be bounced on the bottom, sent against a tree limb and moved in many different ways in order to stimulate strikes. It is a great probing lure for the shoreline because of its tangle-free construction.

Crankbaits cover a lot of water in a hurry. Using them, you can check out a spot without wasting too much time. You can use them for locating fish that may be scattered.

The bottom line is, whatever lure you select for the particular lake that you are fishing on, you need to make it as easy for the Bass to get at it as possible. Drop that lure right in front of them. Scientists have proven that Bass calculate the amount of energy it will take them to go after the prey vs. the return.

Learn to fish all 3 of these lures effectively, and you will catch more than your share of big game Bass!

When to fish for bass

Dawn and dusk are definitely when the biggest bass can be brought in. First, remember that bass love ambush spots offering lots of cover from the baitfish. They like to hid, and pounce on their prey.

These bait fish are most active in the early morning or evening. When they feed, bass follow because the baitfish are less aware of threats when they feed. Go out fishing during these times for the best success - additionally you will have the water to yourself as most anglers don’t fish during these times.

The first excellent lure to use is a plug that looks like a mouse - very productive. Also use a big spent-wing moth made out of deer hair. Body and wings should be about the size of your forefinger. The idea is to twitch it along as if it is injured and trying to get in the air. Other surface plugs that chug, waddle, or have spinners are usually productive as well as buzzing lures that squeak. The most effective is a slim-minnow lure (a floating diving type). It resembles an elongated minnow at rest on the surface, and the lure will dive quickly when twitched, and then pop back up as if injured.

When retrieving an underwater lure in poor light, keep it coming at a steady pace once it is set in motion. This will make it easier for bass to locate and grab it.

The last thing is, don’t bother going out in the dawn/dusk when water is below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. This temperature wipes out certain aquatics and terrestrials, which nullifies the food chain feeding.

Water Quality Considerations

You need to fish bass differently in different kinds of water quality. Follow the general guidelines below to get better results.

Muddy Water: In low-visibility water, a bass finds food using its sonar senses. You must use lures with the best vibration and noise. You can tell if a lure has a high vibration by feeling the shaking of your rod as you bring in the lure. Use your heaviest vibrators and keep them coming at a steady pace so that bass can detect it.

Clear Water: Bass are overly cautious in clear water with high visibility. Their survival instincts kick in, and they are wary of anything out of the ordinary. Use lighter lines that are less visible. Also, use longer casts and lures that resemble bass food in the area. Spinners usually work in clear water, but if they are not working try a black spinner blade to reduce the flash.

Normal Water: This water has normal algae and plankton that filters out sunlight. It is ideal for all types of lures, as the bass are not timid. Use the shotgun approach here and set up 3 outfits, one using a surface lure, one using a deep diver, and the last using a plastic worm. Do about 10 casts with each, and then switch them up to different variations. This is a great way to find out what is working.

Fishing a Plastic Worm

Here are some techniques that you should consider for fishing plastic worms for bass in different situations:

Turbid water - bass are sight and sound feeders, and it is important to add turbulence to the plastic worm. Add a No. 3 Hildebrandt gold spinner just ahead of the hook. This sets up a flashing, hissing, throbbing attraction that bass can hear at considerable distances.

Clear water - Cut down the size of the worm, line, and sinker so that bass will have a harder time seeing the lure.

Big vibe worms - Use a worm with a curly tail design that gives off extremely strong vibrations. Try these worms when your straight worms fail to score.

Skipping - This is the only method to get under overhanging branches. You need a spin casting or spinning rig because a level wind reel just doesn’t ski8p well. Make a flat hard cast onto the water’s surface so that it will make a low skip. This will reach bass hangouts impossible to attain in any other way.

Ripping - This will surprise reluctant bass to strike a worm. Let the worm settle to the bottom and lie there for about 20 seconds. Reel slack out of the line and pick up the worm with a long, sharp upsweep of the rod tip. Let it settle to the bottom under tension as you slowly lower the rod tip. Repeat for three or four rips. Strikes will come.

Drift trolling - move to the head of a deep hole and let the wind carry you quietly across the lake while your worm crawls across bottom cover. Raise and lower the worm as it contacts bottom. Pickups usually happen as the worm is being pulled off the cover.

Flyrodding - Fill a single action flyreel with backing and about 50 yards of 10-pound monofilament. Rig a six-inch worm weedless and add a small split-shot ahead of the hook so it will sink slowly. Either flip or flat-cast the worm into every pocket you see and feed it line as it slowly settles to bottom. Keep the flyrod tip low so that you can make a long, sweeping strike when you feel a bass inhale the worm. This is practical in ponds, lakes or streams.

Worm rig

One of the biggest problems with fishing a worm is the inability to sense strikes. Usually the inability to sense them is due to a sinker that is too heavy and a line that is too thick.

Use a variable buoyancy worm using lead strip sinkers. Here are some advantages:

No moving lead on the line to dampen the feel of a gentle pickup
You can apply the precise amount of lead to deliver the worm action needed
It makes it easier for a bass to inhale the worm
It aids in hook setting
It’s easier to shake loose from snags
You can cause the worm to hang virtually suspended over the bottom when fishing shallow water.

To tell how much lead strip is needed, wrap one strip around the hook and bury the barb in the worm. Ease it into the water and watch it sink, it should barely settle toward the bottom. If it sinks to fast, take some off, etc. A slow decent is the ticket here.

Make sure to use no heavier than 8-pound mono line - preferably 6 pound.

Weather Matters

In the early spring and fall bass will smash top water lures such as floating propeller types and poppers. They are also likely to take surface lures when found in shallow water, such as along shorelines near overhanging trees.

As the temperature rises and the bass are in the cooler, deeper holes, change your technique. You need something to dredge the bottom. The plastic worm is ideal for this, even the most sluggish bass will respond when you drag one slowly past its nose.

Crank baits

When fishing a tidal river for bass, cast crank baits near the mouths of tiny feeder streams on the falling tide. Bass hang out where the water depth drops off, waiting for crayfish, crabs and minnows to be washed out.

Bait

One of the best baits for small mouth bass in rivers is the hellgrammite, the larva of the Dobson fly. Gather these from beneath rocks in shallow riffles with a mesh net or seine. Fish them on No. 4 or 6 fine-wire hooks, drifting them naturally through pools and runs below rapids.

A Trick Most Bass Fishermen Don’t Know

Cast a worm over a limber branch and reel it back so that its tail just touches the water. Then jiggle the rod tip, making the worm squirm and wriggle just above the surface. Bass will often leap right out of the water to snatch it.

Night Fishing

Many anglers have the idea that bass do not see well at night and won’t strike. Although it is true that bass cannot see well at night, but they have an amazing ability to pick up disturbances on the water and hone in on unsuspecting bait. Given this, lures that vibrate will cause the most underwater disturbance and are most effective. You can also drill a small hole in balsa or plastic lures to place small BB’s in them to make some noise.

Copyright 2005 EveningSecretFishing.com Fishing

Frank Faldo is a Long-Time Fisherman and friend of EveningSecretFishing (http://www.eveningsecretfishing.com/specialsecret/10_Fishing_Gems.php )

Feel free to use this article on your website or anywhere else - but all links and bio information must remain in tact.